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Entries in Sinks (8)

Monday
Sep092013

Designing Your Kitchen: Deep Thoughts for Your Sink

Article By: Jennifer Ott

I tend to think bigger is always better. Maybe it's because I live in Texas. So when it comes to working in my own kitchen, I do love having a nice, wide sink. It offers plenty of space for food prep and cleanup, perfect for our two-cook household. But what about bowl depth? Sure, an extra-deep sink is good for hiding dirty dishes, but it can also do a number on your back, especially if you are of a shorter persuasion. 

Here are some tips for selecting the correct sink depth for you and how you use your kitchen. 

Kitchen sinks have been steadily growing in bowl depth. Most sinks used to be as shallow as 6 inches or less; the average today is 8 to 10 inches, and they can go as deep as 12 inches. If you repurpose a vintage sink, such as the one pictured here, it will likely be on the shallow side. 

When to Go Shallow

A shallow bowl depth — say, less than 8 inches — is going to be the most comfortable bowl depth for those who are 5-foot-4 or shorter or who are very tall (6-foot 2 or taller). A shallower bowl depth allows a shorter person to work in the sink without having to lean into it to wash items in the bottom. Taller folks can work in a shallower sink without having to crouch down or hunch over.
 

 

Shallow sinks also take up less space in the sink cabinet below them. Not only does this free up storage space, but it also makes it easier to install and access the garbage disposal and the plumbing fittings. Shallow sinks also tend to cost a bit less than deeper versions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When to Go Deep

For those who, like me, seem to dirty every dish in the house when making a meal, a superdeep sink is ideal. You have plenty of space for prepping meals, and in a pinch you can hide your dirty dishes in there until you are able to wash them. This is a nice sink for bakers or others who are regularly washing large sheet pans and cutting boards, too. A sink depth of at least 10 inches will give you the room you need to wash larger dishes without splashing water all over the floor and surrounding countertops.
 

Keep in mind that if you are going with an undermount sink, you will gain the additional depth of the countertop thickness. You can offset this, however, by using a raised sink grid, as shown here. 

Try One On for Size

When selecting your kitchen sink bowl depth, it's all about finding one that is just right for your height and how you use your sink. If you can, check out kitchen showrooms that have a variety of sink sizes on display —mounted at the standard 36-inch countertop height — to see what sink depth feels most comfortable.

Friday
Aug022013

Install Your Kitchen Sink for How You Like to Cook and Clean

Article By: Jennifer Ott, Assoc. AIA + LEED AP

Once you've decided on the material for your next kitchen sink, you'll want to decide what kind of installation to do. There are four basic categories of sink mounting types: 

  • Apron front sinks, also known as a farmhouse sinks, have a broad, exposed front edge and are usually quite wide and deep.
  • Undermount sinks get attached to the underside of the countertop for a clean look.
  • Drop-in sinks are installed on top of or over the countertop.
  • Integral sinks are made from the same material as the countertop, often fabricated as a seamless unit within the countertop.

Usually aesthetics and cost rule this decision. Drop-in sinks tend to be the most budget-friendly, primarily because you can easily install them yourself in an affordable laminate countertop. Undermount and apron front sinks often require professional installation and can only be mounted to a sturdy and non-porous countertop material, which can add considerable cost to the project. Integral sinks are generally the most expensive type, due to the cost of the material and fabrication. Read on for more information and examples of each to help you make your selection. 

 

Apron Front or Farmhouse Style

These charming sinks are right at home in traditionalor cottage-style kitchens with their exposed fronts and potential for decorative detailing. Apron front sinks are typically wider, deeper and heavier than the other sink types, so they require at least a 36-inch-wide sink cabinet. The sink cabinet must also be able to accommodate the apron front.

 

Of course, apron front sinks are no longer just for old-world or farmhouse-style kitchens. There are many stunning modern versions of the apron front sink available today, such as the brushed stainless steel beauty pictured here. Also, while these sinks have traditionally come with a single bowl, they now also come in divided, two-bowl versions.

These are certainly attractive sinks, but if you are considering installing one in your kitchen there are a few issues to keep in mind. I've heard a few complaints about how easy it is to accidentally break a dish or glass against the apron when aiming to place the item in the sink. 

Also, if you go for a stainless steel or copper version, be aware that the apron could get scratched up from contact with belt buckles or metal buttons on your jeans. And, unless it is installed as an undermount (with the countertop extending over the sink edge), there will be a seam between the sink and countertop, where moisture and gunk can collect.
 

Undermount

This is my favorite mounting type for a sink. I like the clean look, not to mention the easy-to-clean design. You can undermount a sink to any sturdy, non-porous countertop, such as natural stone, concrete, quartz and solid surfacing. I have heard of successful applications to wood countertops, but extra care must be taken to protect the wood from water. There are also laminate countertop manufacturers that claim you can undermount a sink to their material. Discuss with your countertop retailer to see if this is an option for you. 

 

Depending on your particular undermount sink, you may have some options regarding the reveal — or how much or little of the top of the sink is visible just below the inside edge of the countertop. I tend to prefer a no-reveal, or zero-reveal, look — just a smooth, straight drop from the countertop into the sink. This makes the sink and surrounding countertop area super easy to clean, as there is no ledge for food particles to collect in. You can also specify a "negative reveal" where the countertop extends over the edge of the sink. 

I think a slight negative reveal —⅛ inch or less — is fine, but any more than that and you run the risk of breaking dishes on the overhanging lip of the countertop as you lift them out of the sink. I would also be wary about not being able to see and maintain the water-tight seal between the sink and countertop — it can be difficult to view with a negative reveal.


 

 

 

Drop-in

This is a popular sink style for those on a tight budget, for those installing a sink within a porous countertop body material (such as wood or laminate) or those looking to repurpose a vintage sink or get a vintage look.

This type of sink is installed over the countertop, into a cutout, and then sealed around the edge where the sink lip meets the countertop. The obvious downside to a drop-in sink is that the raised lip makes it more difficult to wipe food particles directly into the sink, as you can with an undermount sink.

 

 

 

 

 

Where undermount sinks have a clean, minimalist feel, drop-in sinks are very charming and work well in rustic or farmhouse-style kitchens. Similar to apron front sinks, drop-in sinks can be a real eye-catching decorative element in a kitchen.

 

Integral

If you'd rather your kitchen sink blend in, and you are installing stone, metal, solid surface or quartz countertops, think about having an integral sink fabricated. Your countertop fabricator simply forms a sink using the countertop material. The look is very clean and seamless — perfect for a contemporary kitchen. 

 

Here's a close-up of an integral sink. These sinks have no nooks and crannies for food particles to collect in, making cleanup a breeze.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

An integral sink is one of the more expensive mounting types because these sinks are usually custom designed and manufactured. You are paying for the raw material as well as fabrication and installation, which can be costly. But for those with the budget for it, it's certainly an appealing option.

 

Monday
Jul292013

Kitchen FAQs: Selecting Your Sink Material

Article By: Jennifer Ott, Assoc. AIA + LEED AP

Anyone who has built or renovated a kitchen knows what it can feel like to make so many decisions in a very short amount of time. Educating yourself about your options beforehand can help cut down on some of that stress. Here, we take a look at sinks — specifically the choices you have when it comes to materials.

Cost, functionality and aesthetics should all weigh in when you select your sink material. For instance, you can get a well-priced stainless steel sink, but be aware of how easily it can scratch and show water marks. White fireclay or cast iron sinks are beautiful, but may require some elbow grease to stay bright and white. Integral quartz sinks are becoming increasingly popular, but they can be expensive and aren't necessarily bulletproof. 

Not sure what's right for your kitchen? Read on to learn more about these popular material options for today's kitchen sinks. 

Stainless Steel

By far the most popular material for kitchen sinks, stainless steel sinks are heat and stain resistant and are available in a variety of types, styles and sizes. I recommend going for a brushed or satin finish rather than a mirror finish — water marks and scratches will be less noticeable. Also, look for sinks that have sound-absorbing pads on the bottom. Consumer Reports recently tested stainless steel sinks and found that these pads, rather than sound-absorbing spray or a thicker gauge of steel, performed best in reducing the noise commonly associated with stainless steel sinks.

Prices for stainless steel sinks run the gamut, but you can get a decent quality stainless steel sink for not a lot of money, making it my pick for those on a tight budget.

Cost: $100 to $800 is typical, but prices can go higher depending on gauge, size and mounting type.
 

Composite Granite

Composite granite sinks are my go-to sink, both for my clients and my own kitchen. They are good-looking, durable and don't show water marks or scratches the way stainless steel sinks do. They come in a variety of neutral hues, but I prefer the darker grays, browns and black because they camouflage food filth the best. This is my own sink pictured here, and I must confess, I don't clean it nearly as often as I probably should because it never looks dirty. Although these sinks are durable, they can crack if mishandled — I've heard stories of sinks being damaged during shipping. Always inspect your composite sink thoroughly before installation to make sure it suffered no trauma during transit.

Cost: $300 to $600
 

Fireclay

Manufactured from clay fired at an extremely high temperature, fireclay sinks are highly resistant to scratches, staining and chipping. Cleanup is easy — just dish soap on a sponge, or use a mild abrasive cleanser for tougher marks. These are the sinks I recommend for anyone who wants a white kitchen sink.

Cost: $400 to $1,000

 

Cast iron

Clad in a tough enamel finish, this is another highly durable sink I recommend for white sink fans. It comes in other colors, too, but I'd suggest avoiding faddish colors for items that you want to keep around for a long time, such as your kitchen sink. Keep in mind that cast iron sinks are heavy, so make sure your cabinets are structurally sound and you provide adequate support for the sink.

Cost: $300 to $900
 

Natural Stone

If you are putting in natural stone countertops, such as beautiful soapstone, think about installing a sink to match. Some stones are susceptible to stains, though, so get a sample of the stone you are considering and test it out to make sure you are happy with how it stands up to staining. Soapstone is fairly stain resistant, but it is a softer stone, so you either need to be careful with it or be OK with it developing a patina over time.

Cost: Varies depending on the stone but typically starts around $1,000

 

Quartz

If you're going with a quartz countertop, you have the option of installing a matching quartz sink. One thing to keep in mind with quartz however, is that the darker, more solid-colored quartzes tend to show scratches and dings much more than lighter colors that have more aggregate or patterning to them.

Cost: $800 to $1,200

Solid Surface 

Like natural stone and quartz, solid surface sinks can be integrated into the countertop for a smooth, streamlined appearance that's super easy to clean. Again, it's best to get a sample of the material you are considering and put it to the test to make sure you are OK with its durability, as some solid surfacing shows scratches.

Cost: Solid surface countertops start at around $50 a square foot; there is typically an additional fabrication and installation charge for an integral sink.
 

Copper

In the market for something different? Copper sinks are big on charm and also happen to be rust-resistant and antimicrobial, making them a great choice for the kitchen. Just be sure to select a high-quality copper sink that is at least 99 percent pure copper — a small amount of zinc may be added for strength. Avoid harsh chemicals with these beauties and instead clean up with a mild soap and water, according to the manufacturer's recommendations. 

Cost: $500 to $1,200 but can go up depending on gauge and any hand-crafted detailing.

Tuesday
Oct162012

Surface Value

Consumers play it safe and practical when choosing kitchen countertops

If you had to sum up current kitchen countertop trends in a few phrases, you might use the following: durability, generational preferences, clean and simple and ice cream sundaes. When taken together, they reflect prevailing consumer attitudes about kitchen remodels (and perhaps home improvement projects in general). Sure, they're renovating for themselves but hey, let's not get too crazy.

Practical Matters

This sentiment may explain why many of the trends may seem familiar and why performance remains a key concern in purchasing decisions, even as aesthetics have assumed more of a leadership role. "The recession had changed people's attitudes about experimentation," said Kelly Morisseau, a Walnut Creek, CA-based designer and author of popular industry blog Kitchen Sync. "I see quartz countertops going as strong as ever but less demand for materials like concrete and stainless steel." In Ambler, PA - David Stimmel - of Stimmel Design Group, still uses concrete countertops in much of his work but agrees engineered stone is king, its popularity no doubt buoyed by its ease of maintenance and durability.

But all is not engineered stone. White marbles, such as Carrara and Calcutta Gold, continue to have their admirers, and thanks to a flood of lower-cost varieties from overseas, granite has not completely gone away, noted Chad Seiders, executive director of Artisan Group. A softer, warmer alternative, solid surfacing has also regained its footing, especially among those with a taste for the sleek, contemporary and even monolithic. "It's a better-performing material in that you can do more with it," said Thomas Perich, North American marketing manager for surfaces at DuPont, citing advantages such as a lack of seams and ability to create coved backsplashes, integral sinks and thick edges. "You just have a lot of flexibility."

Safety in Colors

As to color, the selections are vast and many, yet consumer preferences still tend toward the conservative. "A lot of clients want to go for the bold colors, but in the end, they never really do," Stimmel said. Most play it safe with earth tones, such as creams and caramels, or what Morisseau calls "ice cream sundae colors." Summer Kath, senior director of business development and strategic partnership at Cambria USA, also sees interest in grays, browns, black and, of course, white. Not surprisingly, a recent best seller for Cosentino North America, noted Lorenzo Marquez, the company's VP of marketing, resembles white marble. 

In fact, Martinez said, "We're finding that homeowners and designers are seeking options that offer the aesthetic of, say, a marble or granite," a trend borne out by the latest quartz offerings from Consentino and Cambria. Nature-inspired, the designs are rich in veining and dramatic in movement - a look favored by the older Boomer set whose kitchens are more traditional, said Morisseau. The younger, contemporary inclined are apt to choose calmer options with smaller particulate or, if they live in cosmopolitan areas, solids, which are emerging in Europe, said Perich. 

Mixing and Edging

Where self-expression lets loose is in the mixing of materials and colors - although that, too, can depend on geography - and the varying of countertop thickness, which can range from ½ inch to 1½ inch to 3 inches. Most industry experts agree simple edges and mitered corners are in, but some still field requests for ornate, classic treatments. Also being specified are chiseled edges on engineered and natural stone, as well as wood tops with "a naked or bark edge" that appears as if just sliced from a tree, Stimmel said. Perich has also noticed that in Europe and, to a lesser degree, on these shores, contemporary kitchens are moving toward ultra-thin countertops with virtually no edge.

Developments to watch for? Maybe. Much depends on factors beyond the realm of kitchens and baths - politics, economics, culture - and their impact on consumers' mood. There will always be curiosity and demand for the next big thing, but if the present is any indication, form and function still go hand in hand. 

Monday
Aug272012

Bathroom Remodeling Guide: Dos and Don'ts

Seven Upgrades That'll Make You Happy & Seven You May Regret

An expertly remodeled master bathroom will provide years of pleasure and comfort. But do an amateur job and you'll be reminded of that fact every day. It's a tricky space, unfortunately, with lots of moving parts crammed into a tight footprint, not to mention the volumes of water ready to exploit any and all leaks. Setting a budget and planning ahead are two ways to keep your project on track and also take care to choose the best sink, countertop, and toilet for your space. The following list of dos and don'ts will help you master the remodel, whether you do the work yourself or hire it out.

 

Photo: American Cabinet & Flooring Project Manager Randy Wilson

Seven Good Ideas

When you're investing in a home remodeling project, you want to make sure that the results not only please you but add value to your home and save you money on energy and water as well. These seven steps will help you take advantage of the latest design trends, technologies and products.

#1). Budget for the Unexpected

Hidden water damage is a common problem in bathrooms, whether from a leaky shower pan or running toilet. "If the floor feels spongy, that's a sign of serious water damage," says John Petrie, owner of Mother Hubbards Custom Cabinetry in Mechanicsburgh, PA. Other issues are truly hidden, for example a vent stack inside a wall that you thought you were going to knock down. 

An experienced contractor will do exploratory work early in the project to sniff out as many issues as possible. "In the case of the vent stack, we'll investigate above the bathroom to see the pipe coming up through the house," says Petrie. But contractors can't see through walls, so don't expect them to catch every possible pitfall. That's why it's important to build a 10 to 15 percent cushion into your budget. If nothing goes wrong, you'll have a nice little windfall. 

#2). Hide the Toilet

A master bath that's stylish and functional can also be discreet. That's why it's nice to hide this fixture away, either in its own "room-within-the-room" or behind a half wall. A piece of furniture - an armoire or dresser, say - can create the necessary barrier without the expense of a framed wall.

#3). Do Choose Appropriate Surfaces

Your master bathroom's surfaces do more than just contribute to the overall aesthetic. They also take lots of abuse. Porcelain tile is a favorite among designers, for use on the floors and walls alike. "You can find some versions in the $5 per square foot range that look like natural stone," says Petrie. He recommends larger tile sizes to minimize grout lines, easing the upkeep. That might mean 18-by-18-inch tile on the floors and 12-by-12-inch on some or all of the walls, perhaps transitioning to 6-by-6 tiles on the diagonal with a glass mosaic transition strip.

Porcelain is also a popular option for bathroom sinks, though it proved prone to chipping in our tests. Enamel-on steel sinks were especially durable and stain-resistant, as were stainless steel sinks, which are becoming more popular for use in bathrooms. Solid-surface sinks are another durable option that allows the sink to be integrated with the vanity countertop and, if you like, the adjoining cove or backsplash.

When it comes to the countertop, granite and quartz have migrated from the kitchen into the bathroom, where they deliver the same durability and visual interest. Laminate and solid surface are still popular as well, and can be cost-effective options, though both scratch easily.

#4). Splurge on the Shower Photo: American Cabinet & Flooring Designer Clay Bernard

The empire of the Roman tub is officially over. "People started to realize that they could count on one hand how many times they actually used the tub," says Petrie. "We're now using that space to create larger showers, often with his and her showerheads, body sprays, and even steam generators."

To create this sensual experience, you'll need a shower stall that measures at least 4-by-6-feet, larger than the 3-by-3-feet box that used to be standard. If you can take the stall up to 5-by-7-feet, you may also be able to do away with the door, since the showerhead(s) can be direct in a way that the spray doesn't reach beyond the shower area (an L-shaped design is helpful). This will eliminate a sizable expense, especially if you were planning on a frameless door, which can be pricey. One caveat: Don't eliminate the bathtub if there aren't any other bathrooms in the house with a tub. 

#5). Consider Water Efficiency

Showerheads, toilets, and faucets have all become more water-efficient in recent years, thanks to the Environmental Protection Agency's voluntary WaterSense program, which labels products that are 20 precent more efficient than federal standards. Our tests have found many WaterSense winners, including low-flow showerheads that deliver a satisfying pulse while meeting the flow rate of 2.5 gallons per minute. "You can even have a rain showerhead these days that's low-flow," says Petrie.

As for toilets, several WaterSense-qualified models that use just 1.28 gallons per flush make the recommended list of our latest toilet ratings. That could save you at least 4,000 gallons and some $90 per year in water bills if you're replacing a toilet that dates from 1995 or earlier. Choosing a faucet with an aerator can reduce the water flow in your bathroom sink by 30 percent or more.

#6). Make Room on the Vanity

Since grooming is the main task at the vanity, it's important to have plenty of surface area to put things down. While the his-and-her double sink configuration has been popular in the past, it often makes sense to have a single sink and more counter space. "Couples I work with usually realize that the second source of water is less important than the additional countertop,"says Carolyn Cheetham, president of Design Works by Cheetham in Alberta, Canada. Besides maximizing the counter space, opting for a single sink vanity saves you the expense of the second sink and faucet. And eliminating a set of plumbing expands the available space inside the vanity. 

#7). Provide Adequate Ventilation and Light

Moisture not only breeds mold and mildew, it can take a toll on finishes and painted surfaces. A bathroom fan is the best defense. Guidelines from the National Kitchen and Bath Association call for a ducted system that's at least 50 cubic feet per minute, though you may need twice as much ventilation if the space is larger than 100 square feet or if you plan to install a steam shower. Consider a humidity-sensing unit that will automatically turn on and off depending on the amount of moisture in the air.

As for lighting, the goal is to bring different layers of illumination into the room. A ceiling fixture is suitable for general lighting, but it will cast shadows on your face when you're seated at the vanity. That's why you'll also want sconces or other vertical fixtures mounted on either side of the vanity. Some medicine cabinets are available with vertical lighting strips.

The shower and toilet should also have a dedicated task light, such as a recessed canister light. Consider fixtures that use LED bulbs. Many provided bright, even illumination in our lightbulb tests with the promise of 50,000 hours, though they do cost more. Remember to put the fixtures on dimmer switches so that light levels can be adjusted depending on the mood and task at hand. 


Seven Costly Mistakes

Avoiding these seven common goofs could save you thousands of dollars on the project, especially if you're planning an upscale remodel. You're also likely to enhance the comfort, style, and efficiency of the finished project.

#1). Don't Rush the Process

Now that you're committed to the idea of a new bathroom, you probably want it done tomorrow. But poor planning is the leading cause of cost overruns on these projects. "Nothing is more expensive than doing things twice," says Elizabeth Goltz, owner of Design by Orion in Kansas City. Depending on the size and scope of your bath project, you should spend several weeks to a few months on the planning process. If you don't have a Pinterest account yet, consider one. This website lets you keep a digital ideas file of inspiring images you find on the Internet, say for tile styles, favorite fixtures, and clever designs. 

As you plan the space, try to come up with a design that keeps the major plumbing lines in place. Moving the toilet from one wall to another will mean relocating a 3-inch drain line in a home, which can cost thousands. "If you can keep the toilet, shower, and sink where they are, you'll save significantly on the project," says Petrie. 

#2). Don't Skimp on Skilled Labor

The do-it-yourself approach can be an effective way to trim costs, but it's best to focus on the front and back ends of the project, say, ripping out the old tub during demolition and handling the finish painting. Leave the more complicated installations to professionals, ensuring they're highly skilled. "A good tile setter can make a low-cost tile look expensive," says Goltz. "On the flipside, you could spend a fortune on tile, and a bad tile layer will make it look cheap."

Given how many trades are required for a typical bathroom remodel - plumbers, electricians, tile setters, cabinet installers, and more - it pays to find a top-notch general contractor to manage operations. Meet with at least three contractors, preferably those you find through word of mouth. Make sure the person you settle on has an up-to-date license and insurance, including workers' compensation. And scrutinize the contract; it should list every product down to the model number and finish. And don't automatically go with the lowest bid.

#3). Don't Cut Corners on Key Materials

Another common mistake is cheaping out on those items that get the most use. Lifetime warranties that cover leaks and stains have become more common on all but the cheapest faucets. PVD (physical vapor deposition) finishes resisted our best attempts at scratching them, but drain cleaners can stain them slightly. Chrome was also pretty durable in our tests, but can be scratched if you rub it with a heavy duty scouring pad.

Tile is another material that you can touch and feel each day. While you can find quality options for $5 per square foot, super cut-rate tiles may have slight size inconsistencies. The results will be crooked lines that make a bathroom look shoddy.

So where can you save? Light fixtures tend to perform the same across most price points - it's the high design that costs more. You might also find that opting for a basic finish on faucets and fixtures saves you hundreds of dollars without compromising quality. And you definitely don't need to blow your budget on a luxury toilet, like Kohler's $6,390 Numi, with its motion-activated lid and built-in bidet. Those are cool features, but toilets costing as little as $300 delivered the best flush in our tests. 

#4). Don't Stop Thinking About Tomorrow

You may be the picture of good health today, but you can't predict the future. What you can do, however, is ensure that your bathroom will serve you and your loved ones regardless of your abilities by following the basics of Universal Design (i.e. aging in place). "It is absolutely coming onto people's radar, even younger clients," says Alan Zielinkski, president of NKBA.

And you don't have to worry about ending up with an institutional look. Many universal design features are now part of mainstream bathroom design. For example, the larger shower stall that's in favor today offers easy access and universal use, provided it has a zero-threshold and a built-in seating platform. "The bench is also a nice place for an able-bodied women to sit and shave her legs," says Cheetham. Regarding toilets, so-called comfort-height models that are easier to get on and off of are now just as common as standard-height models. Even grab bars have enjoyed a design upgrade; many now match towel bars and other accessories. And they're not just for the elderly. Grab bars make it easier for pregnant women or young children to get in and out of the bathtub.

Even if you don't incorporate every element of universal design into the bathroom now, it's worth putting in the structural framework, such as blocking in the walls for future support bars. Make sure your contractor makes a drawing of the wall so that you can find the blocking if, and when, the time comes.

#5). Don't Forget to Factor in Water Use

Bathroom fixtures have become more water-efficient, especially if you choose WaterSense-qualified models. But the trend toward tricked-out showers, often with his-and-her "shower towers" that might include multiple showerheads and body sprays, will likely result in your water and energy use going up. It also means your bathroom's existing drain and plumbing lines might require an upgrade. "You may need to resize your water lines from half-inch to three-quarters," says Petrie, an upgrade that can add hundreds, if not thousands, to your project.

Thirsty fixtures may require you to upgrade your water heater as well, say, from a unit that holds 50 gallons a day to one that holds 80 gallons. That could cost you another $1000 or so - figure on roughly $2000 if you choose one of the energy-efficient hybrid water heaters that Consumer Reports' test have found to be good long-term investments.

#6). Don't Buy Products Online Without Seeing Them in Person Photo: American Cabinet & Flooring

Going online is great for researching products and design ideas. But materials and finishes aren't always as they appear on your computer screen. That blue-gray quartz vanity top might be more blue than gray in real life, or the light fixtures that look understated online could overwhelm your actual space. That's why we always recommend visiting a showroom or design center before you buy. While you're there you may even get the showroom to meet or even beat the online price. 

#7). Don't Forget About Storage

Running from the shower to grab a towel from the hallway linen closet gets old - and cold - fast. A closet inside the bathroom is ideal, though an armoire or even just a simple chest can hangle the essentials. And a medicine cabinet is still the best place for you various health-care and first-aid essentials. 

 

Photo: American Cabinet & Flooring's Showroom Bathroom Display

Copyright © 2006-2012 Consumers Union of U.S., Inc.