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Wednesday
Sep042013

10 Stylish Options for Shower Enclosures

Article By: Michelle Gann

A shower is one of the first things you notice when you step into a bathroom, so make sure your enclosure not only matches your style but also accentuates your bathroom. 

We've all seen or lived in a home with the ever-so-famous enclosure framed in polished brass, but there are tons of other options with which to surround your shower. Whether you go for framed or frameless, or with no enclosure at all, choose your style wisely. 

1. Frameless glass shower enclosure. This is a very popular option right now because of its flexibility; a frameless glass enclosure lends itself to any style, whether it's a clean, sleek design that appeals to modern tastes or a simple and understated one with an elegant and classic look. 

The glass itself is fairly easy to clean and maintain; it’s even more so if you get glass with a finish baked on that repels soap scum and water spots. Overall, frameless glass is a great way to showcase your shower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Aluminum and glassshower enclosure. Need a little something more to spruce up your shower? Don’t be afraid to be unique and try a shower surround that has flair. Created with glass panels set into an aluminum frame, this shower enclosure mimics the look of the tile in the back of the shower. The dark metal mixed with the clear glass gives the enclosure an eclectic feel.

 

3. Glass block shower enclosure. Eliminate the need for a door with a glass block enclosure. Glass block surrounds are versatile, and there are textured patterns on the blocks themselves. They have strong lines and give your bathroom a clean, cool look. 

The options are virtually limitless with glass blocks. You can find different block styles, thicknesses and even colors. 

4. Sliding enclosure.Want the beauty of glass but don’t have the room for a swinging door? Try a sliding glass door, a very practical space-saving option that’s also stylish.Sliding doors can be customized to fit any style and space, and are a great way to show off your shower and still have room for other bathroom fixtures.

Looking for a sliding glass door on a budget? Try a partially frameless sliding door. It will give you an airy look without breaking the bank.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. Tub enclosure. Just because you have a tub doesn’t mean you are stuck with a shower curtain. Tempered hinged glass can give you the best of both worlds: the ability to reach the fixtures and the ability to keep water in the shower. 

Also, tempered ⅜-inch frameless glass is very durable, so even if you bump the panel against your toilet or vanity, it won’t damage the glass.Tempered glass can be sandblasted to create a frosted look, providing some privacy as well as looking good. Have a little fun with a combination of frosted and clear glass.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6. Textured glass enclosure. If you want privacy without the frosted look, try a glass with texture. The beautiful textures are enhanced with water running down the glass and create a spa-like feel. Textured glass also allows for a see-through effect while masking specific details, making the bathroom seem larger.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. More than one entrance. Who says showers can have only one entrance? Having more than one way to get in and out of the shower is more than just practical. It creates so many design options and can give a bathroom a his-and-hers feel. It also will give you more space in the shower. 

A fully frosted surround gives this bathroom a very luxurious atmosphere, while the exposed sides of the enclosure give the room an open feel. This is great for tall, narrow bathrooms.

Looking for something a little less closed off? Try frosting only a portion of the panel to provide privacy while still showing off your fabulous shower.

 

 

 

 

 

8. No shower enclosure.Some bathroom layouts don't require an enclosure at all. A consistent floor material makes this bathroom seem expansive. The open shower with just the tiled wall separating it from the vanity gives the bathroom a nice feeling of unity. 

Worried about keeping the heat in? Add a heated shower floor or a heat lamp in the ceiling (or both).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9. Framed enclosure.Framed enclosures are a popular option because they are a low-cost solution to the age-old problem of how to keep water in the shower. But just because the shower is framed doesn't mean it can't be stylish. Instead of polished brass, try a chrome finish for a look that can be classic or modern. 

Adjustable panels at the top allow for venting in this fully enclosed shower as well as give it a little flair. 

Want something affordable and traditional? Go with an oil-rubbed-bronze frame — and don't forget to add a drain cover to match.

 

 

 

 

 

10. Tile and glass enclosure. A frameless glass door combined with tiled walls gives this bathroom an open look. A tile surround with frameless glass windows not only makes the shower feel bigger on the inside, it also allows plenty of light in. 

Need something more daring? Don't be afraid to mix materials. Try a darker tile with rippled glass.

Friday
Aug302013

Bathroom Design: Getting Tile Around the Vanity Right

Article By: John Whipple

Tiling under your new vanity or custom cabinets can prevent shower or sink water from finding its way into your house. Extending tile all the way under freestanding or floating vanities can make a room look and feel larger, too. These vanities are popular choices in today's bathrooms, so it's important to understand the pros and cons of bringing tile all the way under your bathroom storage. 

See how these bathrooms combine vanities and floor tiles, and learn what you should specify when working with your bathroom contractor. 

Making sure the floor is perfectly level is an important step for a vanity like this. Trying to level a vanity after tile installation can be a real chore. If you're having a vanity custom built, designing adjustable legs can help get your vanity and vanity top perfectly level. 

Tip: Consider omitting extra legs in custom vanity designs and securing the vanity to the wall if needed. Getting eight legs to sit perfectly flat is much harder than four! 

If your bathroom floor is a little unlevel and you don't want to spend the money or time making it perfectly level, a little shoe molding (the small strip of molding at the bottom of the vanity toe kick in this photo) on your vanity can visually even things up. Shoe moldings add a lot of charm to a vanity's look and help protect the vanity from water damage. 

Tip: If you are going to use a shoe molding, plan to shim the vanity off the ground by about ⅛ inch or so, so that the only wood in contact with the floor is the shoe molding. If there's ever a leak in your bathroom, the shoe molding, rather than the bottom of your vanity, will absorb the damage. It's much easier (and more affordable) to replace shoe than the entire vanity.

 

 

 

 

 

I love how this vanity has higher legs and extra foot room. Traditional bathroom and kitchen cabinets often have a smaller kick space (the little recess below the bottom drawers) with little to no room for your toes. If you like to get up close to your vanity and lean toward the mirror when getting ready, a freestanding vanity with extra leg height is a great idea. 

Tip: If you're installing radiant floor heating, you'll want it to go all the way under your vanity with a design like this. That way your feet will still stay warm when you're up close to the mirror. We prefer cable heating systems rather than heating maps for this very reason; they allow for greater heat placement control.

 

Tiling under your vanity can help seal up any voids that might collect water and harm your home's construction. Sink and drain lines can leak if not properly installed or prepared, and often this leak runs down the back side of a vanity and into the floor. 

Tip: Make sure all your water supply lines have trim collars inside the vanity. These collars act like little water deflectors and can keep water from running back along a pipe and into the wall.
 

In a larger bathroom, the high cost of tile could be a big factor when you're deciding whether or not to tile under a vanity. Usually we order a 10 percent overage in bathrooms, but for some large bathrooms I'll just order 5 percent and use the off cuts under the vanity. This allows the client to get the benefits of tile under their vanity without added cost. 

Tip: If your tile is crazy expensive, consider using a cheaper, similar tile under the vanity. No one will know but you.
 

Larger vanities with a solid countertop like this can add a lot of weight to a tiled floor. If you're aiming for a similar look and style, considered the added weight your vanity will bring to the room and make sure your contractor prepares the floor for this kind of installation. 


Tip: Curious if your floor is strong enough? Try this simple test for excessive floor deflection: Fill a drinking glass to the top with water, place it in the room before tiling and walk around the room. Move the glass to a few different locations and walk around each time. If the water spills from the glass anywhere, the floor most likely has too much bounce and might not be suitable for a heavier vanity.
 

Adding some light under a vanity makes for a great night feature and brings another layer of lighting to the room. Some tile is so shiny that it acts like a mirror under the vanity, so make sure that the bottom of your vanity is not littered with job tags, addresses or overspray from finishing.

Tip: If you want a more even glow from the lighting, consider shining the light toward the back wall instead of straight down. This creates a little less light but a more even glow.


Wednesday
Aug282013

Why Bathroom Floors Need to Move

Article By: John Whipple

"Tenting" is a terrible word to a tile professional. When a bathroom floor has been installed incorrectly, tiles can press against one another and pop up off the floor, creating a tent shape. It's not just tile that does this — almost every material in a home expands and contracts with time, including the plywood subfloor, which can develop popped tiles or cracked grout joints. 

These professional pointers for preparation and installation techniques can help keep your bathroom floor from tenting. 

Avoid large-format tile. More grout joints allow for minor movement and spreading out. 

If you have a large bathroom — like this beautiful space — with loads of natural sunlight, a smaller and lighter tile is definitely a safer option. Darker tile absorbs heat and expands and contracts more than lighter tile. 

All of a home's building materials expand and contract; the hardwood floor, the tile and even the countertops all move over time. Any good pro should know how to account for these size changes and prevent expansion from wreaking havoc in a home. 

Tip: Make sure your tongue and groove subfloor does not get filled with dust, debris or adhesive mortar (thinset). This subfloor needs the ability to move, and the joints should not be too tight. 

This photo shows some great tile work. The beautiful tile is nicely lined up, but I especially appreciate how there's no mortar or thinset where the tile meets the wall. Using mortar here can lead to tenting issues, since it prevents the tile floor from moving and expanding. This clean finish is exactly what you want to see in your bathroom. Make sure your tile contractor understands that you don't want your installation done with thinset on the edges that meet the wall. 

If you drive over bridges frequently — like I do every day — you'll notice that bridges have expansion strips. During the summer the bridge is quiet, since summer's heat has expanded the bridge's concrete and the expansion strips are pressed tight. But in the winter, driving over the same bridge sounds quite different; the expansion strips are wider, and they click-clack as your tires hit them. 

Designing tile floors to expand and contract follows some of these same principles. Uncoupling membranes underneath floor tile can improve your floor's flexibility. This photo shows a professional installing a Strata Matuncoupling membrane to account for minor floor movement.

 

Hearing a hollow noise when you're walking across newly tiled floors could be the early signs of tile bond failure. This sound results from poor thinset coverage.

In this photo the floor tile goes underneath the tub skirt. This is a solid design that allows for movement on the floor tile. 

Tip: Gently tapping set tiles with the wooden handle of a rubber mallet can help you find the hollow noise where poor thinset coverage has occurred. 

All steam showers have a modified thinset to account for quick thermal expansion. The powerful steam and heat in steam showers require a thinset that can accommodate immediate expansion and contraction. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Glass expands more than many other building materials. Large panels like these let in lots of sunshine and quickly heat up the bathroom, increasing thermal expansion. 

For an installation like this, I'd make sure that the corners of the shower stall had two layers of a waterproofing membrane. Products like NobleSeal TShave a thicker membrane that can take some compression in the corners.

 

With extremely large bathrooms, expansion strips inlayed into the tile assembly are a must. In my opinion, any room larger than 15 feet in one direction should be using some kind of expansion strip and speciality thinsets and grouts to increase expansion and combat mortar fatigue.

Monday
Aug262013

5 Favorite Granites for Gorgeous Kitchen Countertops

Article By: Charmean Neithart 

Selecting a countertop material for your kitchen remodel or new build is a big decision. I often encounter clients with a mental block when it comes to making a decision on the numerous considerations, like color and edge detail. Additionally, once the countertop hurdle is over, then there is cabinet selection. 

I like granite and use it often for its durability and its earthy colors that add great texture to a kitchen. I have a few favorites that I have worked with over the years. These granite selections get my stamp of approval because of color, movement and their flexibility in complementing different cabinet styles. Take a look at these countertop selections and how they seamlessly blend with either painted or stain-grade cabinets to make winning combinations. 

1. Bianco Romano

Bianco Romano with painted cabinets. I suggest this granite when I have a homeowner who wants that classic white kitchen. This granite works great with pure white, warm white or beige cabinets. Additionally, nickel or oil-rubbed-bronze hardware works great with all the colors of the stone, which include white, cream, gray and a deep bordeaux.

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Bianco Romano with stain-grade cabinets. Due to the warm white, beige and gray palette, this granite works equally as well with stain-grade cabinets. I have seen it work beautifully with walnut and medium oak. 

2. Seafoam Green

Seafoam green with painted cabinets. This granite is just beautiful. The shade of green is earthy, with gray and brown undertones. There are great markings in the stone that look almost geometric to me. This granite works with painted cabinets and satin nickel hardware. I prefer this stone when it is polished.
 

Seafoam green with stain-grade cabinets. If you are looking for a rustic or earthy feel for your home, this is a great combination. Add oil-rubbed-bronze or copper fixtures for the perfect lodge experience. 

3. Costa Esmeralda 

Costa Esmeralda with painted cabinets. I first came across this granite when I had a homeowner ask me to create an ocean palette throughout the house. This granite is between green and blue, and of course will vary from batch to batch. The green-blue of the stone blends perfectly with sandy white cabinets and nickel hardware and fixtures.
 

Costa Esmeralda with stain-grade cabinets. It's equally stunning with stain-grade cabinets, for a masculine and warm look. This granite works particularly well in light-filled kitchens; the sunlight highlights the stone's complex coloring. 

4. Absolute Black 

Absolute Black with painted cabinets. This is my idea of a classic kitchen. I love this traditional look of white cabinets and Absolute Black granite, which looks great polished or honed. Painted cabinets in many colors pair perfectly with this granite, and nickel, chrome or oil-rubbed-bronze fixtures and hardware look terrific.

 

Absolute Black with stain-grade cabinets. Another classic look that can feel rustic or modern. I love Absolute Black with medium oak or walnut. Rift-cut oak also has a great transitional look. 

5. Typhoon Bordeaux 

Typhoon Bordeaux with painted cabinets. One of my favorite granite selections, Typhoon Bordeaux comes in cream, gray, brown or brick red. It's a perfect choice for a light kitchen that has red undertones in the flooring. This granite really can vary by batch, from subtle brick-red veining to strong waves of brick red. Try it with beige or cream cabinets for a warm, light-filled kitchen.
 

Typhoon Bordeaux with stain-grade cabinets. I'm a sucker for warmth, so this combination really appeals to me. The brick red and browns in this granite pair beautifully with walnut, oak, mahogany and cherry cabinets. It works well in Spanish homes that feature Saltillo floors. The deep red and brown in the granite and the rustic charm of Spanish architecture are a match made in heaven.

Friday
Aug232013

8 Top Hardware Styles for Shaker Kitchen Cabinets

Article By: Rebekah Zaveloff

Shaker-style cabinet doors are so flexible stylewise that they can go either traditional or modern depending on what you pair them with. Decorative elements like lighting, tile and hardware can really change the tone and overall style of a kitchen. Cabinet hardware is often referred to as the jewelry of a kitchen, and just like with an outfit, it can really alter the overall look of your space. 

1. Traditional Nickel or Steel Knobs and Bin Pulls

Shaker cabinets are known for their simple, clean lines, and often you'll see them paired with simple, unadorned cabinet hardware. Whether your style is vintage or modern, you'll find that a Shaker door is one of the most versatile doors styles available. A vintage-style kitchen with white Shaker cabinets is often seen finished with a combination of timeless cup or bin pulls and knobs.

Traditionally you'll see knobs on doors and bin pulls on drawers. For drawers 30 inches and wider, two bin pulls are often used.

What they do for the kitchen: Add retro flair.

What they work well with: Inset cabinetry with exposed hinges, stainless steel, white marble and honed black countertops, industrial-style lighting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On vintage bin pulls, the face screws are functional; on reproductions the face screws may be faux, with the pull attached through the back.

2. Vintage Glass or Ceramic Knobs

Vintage-style glass, also referred to as Depression Era glass, is another classic hardware choice for Shaker cabinets. With a stained cabinet finish, it's nice to create some contrast with the hardware by using a white glass knob. 

Putting knobs on drawers is a great vintage touch, though pulls are more user friendly for everyday use. 

This type of knob comes with and without a face screw, as well as in a variety of colors, transparent and opaque, as well as clear.
 

What they do for the kitchen: Create a historical feel that can go Victorian, Arts and Crafts or colonial revival.

What they work well with: Glass-front hutch cabinets, stained wood cabinets, butler's pantry or scullery-style cabinets, subway tile, black and white kitchens.

 

3. Vintage Pulls With Exposed Screws

This type of hardware is reminiscent of vintage double-hung window hardware and can add a great vintage or industrial touch to a new kitchen. It looks completely different in a nickel finish than in oil-rubbed bronze or antique brass.
 

Antique Brass Aubrey Pull - $10 »
I love the authenticity of this pull with the exposed screws, and it comes in a bunch of finishes and sizes, so it can work in lots of different applications. I'm quite partial to antique brass these days, especially on darker cabinets, and I love the high contrast of oil-rubbed bronze on white cabinets. 

What they do for the kitchen: Add a utilitarian and industrial feel.
What they work well with: Other humble and hardworking materials, such as subway tile, stainless steel countertops, commercial-style appliancesfarm sinks and industrial-style lighting.
4. Tubular Bar Pulls
A traditional-style kitchen with Shaker cabinets gets a modern touch with nickel or stainless steel tubular bar pulls. This type of hardware is often seen on slab or flat-panel doors, but it works equally well on a Shaker-style door. Tubular bar pulls can be long and dramatic or short and classic.

Laurey Stainless Steel Melrose Bar Cabinet Pull - $12 »
Tubular bar pulls are sometimes referred to as barrel pulls and are offered by almost every hardware company. They come in a variety of sizes and finishes, making them a great choice if you're looking to add modern flair to your Shaker-style kitchen cabinets. 

What they do for the kitchen: Modernize it
What they work well with: Long and skinny mosaic tiles, oversize and rectangular tiles,ebony or espresso stained Shaker cabinets, modern pendant lighting.
5. Flat Bar Pulls
In this kitchen, the hardware's accentuated length and polished nickel finish add a little modern glamour. In the same way a font choice affects the look of a logo, the decorative hardware of a kitchen can transform the overall experience of the space.
Italian Designs Classic Pull - $15.95 »
Flat bar pulls come in multiple lengths and finishes, from sleek stainless steel to hand-forged white bronze. 

What they do for the kitchen: Add a contemporary edge.

What they work well with: White or dark Shaker cabinets, square-edged stone or concrete countertops, full-height glass backsplashes, oversize rectangular tile in a stacked pattern
Flat bar pulls are a terrific way to modernize a Shaker-style cabinet, complementing it with a linear and squared-off look. As you can see, when run vertically and horizontally, the hardware really creates a focal point in the kitchen.

6. Accented Wire Pulls

This kitchen leans more traditional, with tall crown molding, a decorative hood surround and a bronze faucet, but the cabinet doors are still classic Shaker.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Antique Pewter Cabinet Pulls - $5.19 »
These pulls go by different names, but they're basically wire pulls with decorative details. 

What they do for the kitchen: Allow you to add more decorative moldings and traditional elements.
What they work well with: Traditional elements like plate racks, crown molding, bronze accents and decorative hood surrounds.

7. Arced and Footed Bar Pulls

For a more classic look, there are arced and footed pulls. These go by many different names and can also fall into the wire-pull category. These pulls are traditional and just decorative enough without being too fussy for a Shaker door. Mixing finishes on dark and light cabinets helps to create contrast on each and keeps the kitchen from feeling stale.

What they do for the kitchen: Add a more traditional and decorative element.

What they work well with: Stone mosaic tile backsplashes, nickel diamond-mesh cabinet inserts, marble countertops with a decorative ogee edge.
 

Go Ahead: Mix Your Finishes
When people say all white kitchens look alike, I can't disagree more. Just changing the finish of the hardware completely changes the look of a kitchen, even when the hardware is exactly the same style.

Depending on the other finishes in your kitchen, you may consider satin nickel, polished chrome or nickel, or oil-rubbed bronze. Don't feel like you have to match the cabinet hardware to the lighting or plumbing fixture finishes. I like to mix finishes by using antique brass light fixtures and polished nickel pulls to give a kitchen a more collected-over-time feel.

When using two or more cabinet finishes, as with the stained island and white perimeter cabinets shown in this kitchen, it's perfectly fine to mix up the finishes of the hardware as well! Not everything has to match — the nickel finish wouldn't look as good on the stained island as the antique bronze finish does, for example.