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Tuesday
Oct292013

Which Is for You — Kitchen Table or Island?

Article By: Tiffany Carboni

The eat-at kitchen island has become as de rigueur as energy-efficient appliances. It has revolutionized the kitchen experience, joining chef and diners in one space. We couldn’t possibly live without the island. Or could we? 

While the kitchen island isn’t going away anytime soon, there's been renewed interest in bringing back the humble kitchen table. If you're considering one yourself, the team at HartmanBaldwin Design/Build and others have some great tips for making it work.  

While most of HartmanBaldwin’s clients still prefer to have a kitchen island if they have room for it, some families are bucking the trend. These homeowners “are artists and wanted a long dining table within the kitchen where they could enjoy large dinner parties as well as a space to work on their art projects,” says Karla Rodriguez, HartmanBaldwin's marketing director.

Kitchen tables double as prep space. Islands obviously provide great prep space, as they often include a sink, dishwasher and trash disposal. But if you can find room for those features along the perimeter of your kitchen, you might be able to eschew the island for a central dining table that can double as a superb workstation. “For this kitchen we knew the clients would have enough workspace, thanks to the size of the table and its proximity to the cooking triangle, which gives them all the benefits of an island without an actual island,” says Rodriguez. 

“With today’s modern family, we find that more and more homeowners are requesting that their new kitchen design incorporate a workstation for everyone,” says Tim Campos,HartmanBaldwin's marketing coordinator. “The simple reason: The kitchen has now become the general hub for the family, and clients want a space that also accommodates everyday tasks such as homework, crafts etc.”

While eat-at islands surely offer a suitable platform, some folks prefer the warm homeyness of a central table.
 

Completing the look. This 11- by 22-foot kitchen in Los Angeles needed an air of formality for dinner parties, so the HartmanBaldwin design team gave it a refined elegance — including room for art — while addressing the family's comfort. A colorful concrete floor balances the art-filled walls. “Since our clients walk around barefoot in their home, smooth concrete was the ideal choice for looks while being cool on the feet," Rodriguez says. "We added the rug to soften the space and warm the feet when they’re sitting at the table.” 

Will you have enough storage? “Most people request an island to replace a kitchen table because they need the additional storage that an island offers,” Campos notes. If you want a table instead of an island, "make sure the rest of the kitchen cabinetry has ample space for supplies and tools,” he advises.

This kitchen is centered on a custom table by Terra Amico made of salvaged wood. The table is matched with six black chairs from Pottery Barn. A furniture-like black cupboard holds glasses and tableware, freeing up space in the perimeter cabinets for items that might otherwise have been stored in an island. 
 

The absence of an island allows the kitchen's length to be appreciated from every angle while letting the entertaining area take center stage. 

A sole dining table is a great way to incorporate a workspace that seamlessly switches over to a dining space, but it's also a place where people face one another — instead of the cook — for a type of gathering most islands don't provide. 

Here an antique table set with antique chairs breathes an old-fashion feel into this otherwise white kitchen by Sage Kitchens. A small rolling island in the background can act as an additional workstation when needed.
 

How big should your kitchen table be? This is an important detail to work out. “Avoid any piece that will overpower the space,” advises Rodriguez. “The keyword to a design of this nature is 'balance.'”

Many dining tables extend to accommodate larger groups — that's something most fixed islands can't do.
 

 

What's the right shape? Round tables with pedestal bases allow a comfortable exchange between diners. Their shape allows many people to squeeze in close without anyone having to straddle a corner spot. However, in a wide galley-style kitchen such as this one, a rectangular or oval table can fit more people without anyone's getting awkwardly close to the cabinetry. 

This countertop-height table is 3 feet wide and 7½ feet long, providing seating for six people to connect comfortably with one another in the heart of the kitchen. When the table's not in use as a dining area, the chairs can be pulled away to create easy access to the spacious workstation.


Tip: When you're adding a table to your kitchen, extendable or not, carefully consider how cabinets and appliances with doors — namely, refrigerators and dishwashers, will interact with the dining table and chairs when the doors are fully open. A table's dimensions (including its extensions and chairs when occupied by guests) should never compete for space with open appliances or cabinets.

Lighting the kitchen table. “Lighting is something to pay close attention to when working on a tablecentric design,” says Campos. Just like lighting over an island, a central table's lighting design needs to provide good task lighting as well as warm ambience to set the right mood for entertaining.

 



Monday
Oct282013

What to Ask Before Choosing a Hardwood Floor

Article By: Mitchell Parker

So you’ve decided to get hardwood floors. Easy enough, right? Pick a wood and be done with it. 

Not so fast. There are a lot of factors that will determine what kind of hardwood floor your home can accommodate, and what will look best with your existing or planned furnishings and decor. 

You have some basic options: solid wood and engineered wood. Solid wood is what you generally think of as a hardwood floor: thick, solid planks of wood. Engineered wood is made of a veneer layer that sits atop a core of plywood. This construction deals with moisture a bit better and is recommended for concrete slab subfloors. Which brings up another point. The construction of the floor you're working with pretty much will dictate what kind of wood you can use. 

Here's how to prepare yourself for choosing a hardwood floor for your home. 

1. Where will the wood be going?

Installing hardwood floors on a second story is much different than doing so in a basement. A space beneath ground level is what’s known as below grade. A floor that’s even with the outside ground level is on grade, and any floors above this are above grade. Where you're installing the wood will limit your recommended options.

“For example, you’re not supposed to put solid wood below grade, because the moisture coming up through the ground can cause problems,” says Bob Hagen, who owns Magnus Anderson Hardwood. “So an engineered wood is recommended."

 

 

 

 

 

2. What is the subfloor made of? 

Find out what kind of subfloor you have. The three most common types are concrete slab, plywood and particleboard. This will help you determine whether you can install solid wood floors, or if an engineered wood would be best. 

Concrete. “If you have a concrete slab floor, you’re pretty much limited to engineered wood,” says Andrew Zheng, manager of Unique Wood Floors, which specializes in and ships prefinished hardwood. But don’t fret. You can still get any type of wood in an engineered format. And the thickness of the veneer on engineered wood varies. Higher-end engineered woods "are no less than solid woods in performance and price,” Zheng says. 

(Note: Even the hardest woods, such as Brazilian cherry and hard maple, will ding on an engineered floor if the plywood onto which they are veneered is soft, like lauan, which is a commonly used base.)

Another option is to install plywood over the concrete, but you’ll have to pay for the additional plywood, insulation and labor. “Most people just choose to stick with what they have,” Zheng says. 

If you’re still not sold on the engineered product, Hagen says there's a way to still have solid wood on a concrete slab (as long as it's on grade). It just needs to be glued down, preferably by an experienced professional. 

The downsides are that you need completely flat boards (hard to come by in longer lengths), and the glue is so strong that there’s a permanency to it. “If you have a leak or a flood, getting the material up is incredibly difficult,” Hagen says. “You’ll also want to check the VOCs [volatile organic compounds, which are toxic] in the product. And we ask clients about any chemical sensitivities.” 

Plywood. This is probably the most common subfloor and allows for the most versatility with hardwood floors. You can nail solid wood on top or use engineered wood. 

Particleboard. This material was commonly used under carpet in homes built in the 1970s. It’s basically a cheaper version of plywood. For hardwood floors, you'll need to replace the particleboard with plywood. Then you can add engineered or solid wood. 
 

3. What are your living habits?

Think about how much abuse your floors will take and learn about specific wood species and their durability. Do you have kids and pets? Have large parties often? Or are you a single person who travels a lot? 

If you have a high-traffic house, you’ll want to go with a harder wood. The Janka scale measures how strong a wood is; basically a BB is fired into a plank and the size of the dent it leaves is measured. “Red oak is considered the bell curve,” Hagen says. “It’s pretty hard and medium priced.” 

You can also play with grain patterns as well as with stains and finishes that will hide dents and scratches.
 

4. What style is your home?

You might love the look of hickory but then think differently when you see it covering a floor in a kitchen with modern cabinets. That's because some woods lend themselves better to certain styles. 


When choosing a wood, consider cabinets, trimwork and door casings to make sure the wood won’t clash with other design elements. And coordinate with the colors of the walls and the amount of natural light. This will affect color choice. If you have a lot of windows and skylights, then you probably have enough light to balance out really dark floors. If you have a dark house already, a lighter floor choice will help brighten things.

If your style is modern: Natural maple lends itself well to modern styles. “It’s more of a Norwegian-looking design with a clean look and not a lot of variation,” Zheng says. Gray-stained oak and boards without knots create a clean aesthetic that also works in modern settings.

If your style is traditional: Go with something like hickory. "It mixes lighter and darker pieces, and it’s more like a traditional cabin feel," Zheng says. Also, boards with knots and wider planks fit a more traditional style.

Of course, designers do incredibly creative things with mixing old and new, so don’t discount a wood just because it’s considered more appropriate for a certain style. Playing with grain pattern and stains can yield all sorts of interesting results.
 

5. What’s important to you? 

Is budget the biggest factor? Or is the appearance all you care about? 
Determining what’s most important to you will help you determine the right wood for your floor. 

Cost. 
Engineered wood isn’t always the cheapest route, so don’t think you can’t have solid wood floors on a budget. Zheng says you can purchase generic oak flooring in various stains for $3.50 to $4 per square foot, while lower-end engineered floors start at $2.50 to $3 per square foot. Beautiful hardwood like the popular acacia species can be as high as $6 per square foot.

Maintenance. 
If you want something that will hold up over time, you'll want to look at the harder woods (with higher Janka ratings). Also pay attention to the stain. 

The traditional method for staining wood uses a polyurethane finish, which produces a higher sheen. If the floor gets dinged or scratched, light bouncing off the semigloss finish can exacerbate the appearance of those flaws. 

Oil finishes are increasingly becoming more popular these days. They soak into the wood and provide a more matte finish. This can help hide wear and tear; plus, they last longer. While the up-front cost is higher, you won’t need to restain the floor as often, saving you money in the long run.

You can play around with finishes too. Hand-scraped or wire-brushed treatments rough up the appearance, creating a worn look so that if something does scuff it, the mark is not as noticeable. Note that the thickness of the veneer on an engineered floor affects how often it can be sanded down and finished.
 

Appearance. Everyone's preference is different. Some people are attracted to oak more thanwalnut, and vice versa. 

Acacia, shown here, is an exotic wood from Asia that Zheng says is a hot seller right now, because of its mix of lighter and darker tones; plus, it’s harder than hickory. The cost ranges from about $4 to $6 per square foot at his warehouse. The unique look is worth the higher cost for some. 

Pay attention to knots and grain pattern. Patterns in hickory and maple are different than in oak. You might want to spend the extra money for a unique grain pattern, or you may want to save money and go with a less-expensive wood with a better stain.

Consider plank width, too, which alters the appearance of your hardwood floors. Wide-plank walnut and 7-inch European oak are popular in traditional homes at the moment. 


The best thing you can do is see and feel the wood in person. “Wood is a living species. You need to feel what you’re attracted to. You’re the one living in the house, not the designer pushing you,” says Ilan Zamir, CEO ofAmber Flooring.
 

6. How will you stain and finish it? 

A stain adds color to the wood. The finish protects the floors from getting dirty. Any stain or finish can be applied to almost any wood. Some people like the color of oak but want the grain pattern of walnut. That's where staining can come into play. 

Some people can’t tell the difference between unstained black walnut and white oak that's been stained espresso. Others can look at those woods and their grain patterns and immediately know the difference. It all depends on what's important to you. 

A finish affects the maintenance. A solid wood that’s been hand scraped for a lower-sheen matte finish is easier to maintain, because you won’t see as much wear and tear. But maybe you want a semigloss look. 

Also, purchasing wood that's been prefinished will give you a good idea of what it will look like and will save you the time and effort of finishing the floors onsite. Engineered wood is usually prefinished.
 

7. How will you test it? 


This step is incredibly important. The last thing you want to do is install 800 square feet of black walnut based on a photo or tiny sample you saw in a showroom only to find it's overpoweringly dark and contrasts poorly with your furnishings. 

Always ask for a 2- by 2-foot sample of what the floor will look like with a stain and finish on it. Use this to test it with your paint colors and decor to make sure it's exactly what you want.

Friday
Oct252013

Outfit Your Shower With the Right Bench for You

Article By: Tiffany Carboni

A shower bench is a wonderful thing. Should your shower stall be large enough to include a seat, it's sure to add function and comfort to your everyday cleansing experience. There is an art to getting shower seating right, however. I asked bath designer Joy Wilkins of Custom Kitchens by John Wilkins to share some tips of the trade. These suggestions will help steer you toward what works best for your stall and your body. 

Types of shower benches. There are three kinds of permanent shower benches: built-in, floating and fold-down. You can also use a freestanding bench, but for this ideabook, we're sticking with shower seating that's permanently affixed to the wall. 


1. Built-in bench. This is a trade term describing a seat that is framed into the shower wall and floor. This type of seating can run the entire width of a shower enclosure, like the one shown here, or may be limited to a corner. It can have squared angles or be semicircular.

Tip of the trade: “One of the easiest ways to incorporate a built-in bench is with a product like the Laticrete Hydro Ban preformed seat,” Wilkins says. “The seat or bench is installed, then waterproofed and tiled in for a custom look.”

 

 

 

 

2. Floating bench. A floating bench is firmly secured to the shower walls but is open underneath. It can be made of waterproofed wood, like this one designed by Laura Bohn Design Associates.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or it can be made from a single slab of stone, like this one installed by Devlin/McNally Construction. 

Though floating benches may look simple in form, careful engineering is required. This task is best left to seasoned professionals.

 

Braces were installed under this near-floating stone bench by Plantation Building, ensuring that the bench can support both its own hefty weight and that of those who sit on it. 

Another option for a floating bench is to tile it to match the rest of the shower. 

Tip of the trade: For this sort of tiled corner seat, Wilkins suggests using a product called Better-Bench. “It’s designed in several shapes and comes with the appropriate fasteners for the chosen shape,” she says.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. Fold-down bench. This is a space-saving solution for smaller showers or universal design showers. Wilkins' company installed this fold-down bench by framing in special blocking between the stud walls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the same bench in a lowered position. When choosing seating, select the style that can best accommodate the weight it will need to support. This one, for example, is designed to hold no more than 250 pounds. 

Tip of the trade: “This teak fold-down bench is aMr. Steam product rated for steam showers," notes Wilkins, "but we also use it in regular showers, as it is designed to withstand water penetration and moisture."

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heavier individuals might want to go with a built-in bench. This is where a conversation with your contractor, designer or architect becomes especially important.

Heavier individuals might want to go with a built-in bench. This is where a conversation with your contractor, designer or architect becomes especially important.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Regardless of the type of bench you choose, Wilkins says, “the top needs to slope slightly, so water runs off instead of pooling.” Pooled water not only feels icky on a naked body, it promotes mildew.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A word about size. The size of your shower — not to mention the number of people who intend to use it at one time — will help determine the most appropriate bench size for your needs. Keep your desired function in mind, too. A narrow bench, like this one, makes shaving legs a dream, but it might not be the most comfortable spot for kicking back and relaxing.

 

Setting the right height and depth. The height and placement of any bench must be determined prior to installing the backer board and tile, so that the bench's armature can be securely fastened to the blocking. 

Tip of the trade: The height of any bench, says Wilkins, “is generally determined by each individual customer. Some like a higher perch — around 21½ inches from the shower pan — which is easy to push oneself off of, especially for a taller person. Some people like something similar in height to a chair, around 17½ to 18 inches. This may work best for those who are shorter and prefer to sit on the bench rather than perch.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The depth of a bench is also negotiable, depending on what suits the bodies for which the bench is being built, and what the stall will allow. Wilkins says a comfortable depth ranges from 12 to 21 inches.

 

This shower bench in a Hollywood Hills, California, home falls into the built-in category — but in its own unique way. “It’s a 2,000-pound lava rock that required extra steel engineering to keep it from falling through the floor,” says designer Lori Dennis, who describes this approach as "The Flintstones meets The Jetsons." 

The rock was carved onsite, and it took seven men to it haul into place. “It’s carved and smoothed to comfortably fit two rear ends,” the designer notes. 

This built-in bench by SoCal Contractor was created for a fashion industry executive who travels most of the year. The custom love seat re-creates the spa experience the owner loves at the boutique hotels she frequents. The tiled, ergonomic design features a sloping seat and a recessed channel that drains behind the “cushions” so water can’t puddle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A bench alternative. Not all showers are as large and as lavish as some we've seen here. Nor might they be large enough to accommodate a bench sized for an actual tush. If that's your scenario, don’t despair. Wilkins suggests adding what she calls a toe grip. This is a small recess in the shower wall or a triangle of tile in the corner that takes up very little space, but still helps with shaving legs and washing toes.

 

 

Monday
Oct212013

6 Ways to Rethink the Kitchen Island

The hardworking kitchen island can be a very functional and beautiful centerpiece of a kitchen design, and it's one of the most popular features of a modern kitchen. But it's not the only way to go. In some spaces an island can feel more cumbersome than useful. If you are feeling the urge to break away from the island-centric kitchen, check out our bevy of inspiring ideas below. 

Save space with an island and table in one. The innovative kitchen in this Sydney home features an island counter on one side, with built-in seating and a marble-topped, extendable table on the other end. Combining a table with an island is a great space saver, and an extendable table can seat a crowd without taking up too much space on a daily basis. 

Another great island-table hybrid, this set works extra hard — the stools are comfy enough to sit on through dinner, yet they can be tucked completely under the table to free up kitchen workspace during prep time.

 

Encourage cozy suppers with a kitchen table. With an ample-size rustic wood table in the center of your kitchen, family and friends are sure to gather around it night and day. It's so much warmer and friendlier than a big, blocky kitchen island, and it's perfect for spreading school projects out on as well. 

Streamline your kitchen with a modern dining set. If you have counter space covered and appliances tucked against the walls, as in the L-shaped kitchen shown here, why bulk up your kitchen with an island at all? A marble-topped Saarinen dining table and Eames chairs (as shown here) are a highly covetable pairing among modern design enthusiasts and enhance the light, airy feel of a white kitchen. 

Get the best of both worlds with a working-height table. When you need more kitchen prep space but don't want a giant island with to-the-floor storage, a tall table is a good solution. You can still comfortably do prep work, but this type of table takes up far less visual space than a built-in island. 

Taller kitchen tables are also great for narrow spaces. A slender table like the one shown here doesn't take up too much space but allows ample room to work. If you wanted to sneak in a bit of extra storage, you could track down a table with drawers or an open shelf, or have a knife rack built into the side. 

Enhance flow in an open-plan space with a kitchen table. When your living, dining and cooking spaces are visually linked, a gigantic kitchen island in the middle of everything can look out of place. Choosing a table instead, whether counter height or dining height, will give your entire space a more relaxed, comfortable feel. 

An old wooden table with a rich patina warms up any kitchen but works especially well when the kitchen opens to a wider living space. Add a soft rug underfoot to boost the comfort factor even more. 

Cozy up a contemporary island with plush seats. You can also work with an existing island by choosing ultraplush upholstered tall benches, instead of the typical bar stools. These are extra wide and have a shape that makes them look more like mini settees than stools, and they look supremely comfortable.
 



Friday
Oct182013

Woodipedia: Is It Cherry or Is It Alder?

Article By:

Stains have made it very easy to color one type of wood to make it look like another kind. But there are two species of wood that really do look alike in their raw state: cherry and alder. Here's how to tell the difference. 

When you think of a cozy country kitchen, most likely you are envisioning warm-colored cherry cabinets. "Cherry was one of the most popular cabinet woods in rural areas throughout the country, because it was so widely distributed across the United States," notes Andy Richmond, vice president and certified appraiser at Garth's Antiques in Delaware, Ohio.

Yet there is another wood species that features a milder version of cherry's reddish tones and grain patterns. Alder is affectionately referred to by woodworkers as "poor man's cherry." With a coat of finish, it can easily pass for cherry to less-discerning eyes. 

Cherry basics. When we speak of cherry, we are really referring to black cherry — Prunus serotina. A distinctive element of most cherry wood is gum spots, or pitch pockets. They're short, black streaks that look like hardened resin deposits.

Sometimes cherry has pin knots — tiny brown circles that again add visual interest. High-end cherry is figured, meaning undulating rays of light seem to shoot across the grain, lending the board a shimmering depth. This radiant effect is called chatoyance.

 

Alder basics. Commonly known as red alder, Alnus rubra grows principally in the Pacific Northwest, where it is the most commercially abundant hardwood. The consistent grain pattern and quiet coloration of alder is polarizing. Some people like it for exactly that reason, while other people find it boring. Alder can have pin knots, but it doesn't have gum spots.

You'll sometimes hear references to clear or knotty alder, but those are just general descriptions. "That's not a grade," says Walt Maas, manager of Bohnhoff Lumber in Vernon, California. "There are industry standards for grading lumber — like there are for grading meat. Each type of wood has its own specifications that professional hardwood lumber graders follow." 

This makes it easier to compare prices when shopping. However, Maas notes that some companies put their own proprietary grades on lumber, which makes comparison shopping more difficult.
 

Differences between cherry and alder. There are three main differences. First, alder is significantly softer, so it weighs less. Second, alder is cheaper. And finally, alder has no sapwood, which is the creamy colored wood on the edge of a board. Like walnut, cherry is known for having a lot of sapwood. 

Cost. Cherry's price is somewhat dependent upon the amount of sapwood. Most boards have more heartwood (the pinkish-red color) on one side and noticeably more sapwood on the opposite side. The percentage of each on a single board influences pricing. Another factor is board width. Wider boards of all species are more expensive.

Maas reports that the current wholesale price of cherry at his yard is $3.20 per board foot. Alder is priced substantially lower, at $2.70 per board foot.
 

Color. While alder is fairly even in color, cherry's basic red cast can have a whole spectrum of variations. This makes it difficult for woodworkers to color match the boards on large projects. Gene Leslie of Rancho Cucamonga, California (who made the cherry cabinets shown here) evened out the disparate tones by treating all the wood with lye to artificially age it while maintaining the clarity of the grain. Amateurs need to be thoroughly educated on this process before attempting it, however, since lye is highly caustic. 

When making tabletops and cabinet door panels, woodworkers frequently cut off the sapwood to feature the prized heartwood. The sapwood is then used for the interior structures, especially in drawer construction.
 

Durability. Black cherry rates 950 on the Janka scale for hardness, which puts it on equal footing with soft maple but far below tougher hard maple (1,450) and black walnut (1,010). 

Alder is rated 590, ranking it as a very soft hardwood, slightly above poplar (540).

 

 

 

Not cherry. While there are no wood types erroneously identified as alder, there are several misnamed cherries. Chief among them is Brazilian cherry, also known as Jatoba. It's an extremely popular flooring choice these days, not only because of its cherry-like color, but also because of its durability. Brazilian cherry rates 2,350 on the Janka scale. (Remember, hard maple is 1,450.)


Other woods masquerading as cherry are Patagonian cherry, Bolivian cherry and African cherry, which is also known as Makore.
 

Finishing. Cherry and alder are both prone to blotching when finishing coats are applied. Again, some people accept this as a beautiful trait of real wood, while other woodworkers try every finishing trick in the business to minimize it. It's a good idea to ask for a finished sample. 

UV stability. Cherry naturally patinates to a darker, richer color over time. American antiques specialist Andy Richmond notes that antique cherry furniture can resemble mahogany.

It's also a notoriously UV-unstable wood, which some woodworkers use to their advantage. To quickly and painlessly deepen the color of some cherry boards, woodworker Gene Leslie intentionally leaves them out in the sun after milling them.
 

Sustainability. Domestic hardwoods have been endorsed by the U.S. Deptartment of Agriculture as a preferred green building material — in large part due to the responsible harvesting methods practiced by the American hardwood industry. The other important factor in the sustainability of American hardwoods is the minimal transportation requirements, compared to those of imported exotics.